Welcome to our

2017 Newfoundland Adventure

in our mighty Tortuga Sprinter

A trip that was scheduled to begin in June of 2017, lasting 6 or more weeks. The map below represents the main flow of our plan, we hope to avoid interstates and cities when a more pleasant alternative is available. These decisions will be made on the fly as Sharon chooses the less traveled route that will make all the difference.

It turned out to be a 7+ week trip, cut short because it started the end of June instead of the beginning, and we had obligations back in Florida.

Planning is history. And the plan wasn't reality.

The general idea was to wend our way North with kayaks and mountain bikes and camping gear to Zitka Island in the St. Lawrence Seaway, where we would visit our friends Greg and Sarah. From there we will cruise through Quebec along the Seaway and then down through New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island. We will explore PEI, and then continue on to Newfoundland. After a while exploring that island, we will head Southwest to Nova Scotia and a bit more exploring before taking a ferry to Portland Maine (or maybe drive and check out the Bay of Fundy). From there we will roam across New Hampshire to Vermont, visiting friends there who might be in town. Then we will likely meet up with Josh and Jeanette in New York, before making the trek back home.


The reality turned out to be different. Because of unprecedented Spring rains, the Great Lakes and so the St. Lawrence Seaway were two feet higher than normal. Since Zitka island is only two feet higher than the normal water level, the house was uninhabitible, and Greg and Sarah left. So Zitka fell off the plan. Also, since our delayed start date meant July 4 was coming up fast, we wanted to be away from fireworks and find a camping spot, so we cut across NY for Vermont, and spent a weekend with a friend in the NorthEast Kingdom. From there we took back roads to Maine before entering Canada headed to Prince Edward Island. We spent too few days there before continuing to Cape Breton and then Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. Our return trip included the coast of Maine before a night in New Hampshire, another one in Vermont, and then several days in New York where we caught up with Sharon's son Josh and Jeanette. Then it was a two day bee line to North Carolina to finally catch up with Greg and Sarah, and then home.

Your traveling gear is important.

We spent 2 1/2 months in a tent in 2016 driving to Alaska and back, with everything we needed in our little Subaru. We planned that trip carefully, and our gear delivered very well, but for 2017 we improved some aspects. The biggest improvement is a new vehicle. We love our Subaru Outback, and were planning on using it for our second trip. We even upgraded some of our camping supplies (tent, sleeping bags), but then Sharon read about Powassan Tick Virus and worried about sleeping amongst the ticks. So instead we went and bought a Mercedes Benz Sprinter Van. We will get a few modifications that are quick and easy before our trip, and will likely improve our new home-away-from-home, our Tortuga. It's a shell we will live in, and we'll likely be as slow as a tortoise. This vehicle is the 3500 with a "Super High Roof" and an extended 170 in. wheelbase. What this means is that it's tall enough for me to stand up in it! We looked at the High Roof, but it was several inches shorter than me, and I don't need back pain from being hunched over. So we have the tallest van anyone offers that I can find. It's also longer than we really might need, but we can fit an 80" long bed and some space in front of it for living in. People who can sleep sideways in a van are very lucky, they also don't need such a tall vehicle. But we are who we are, and this fits us. We chose the 4-cyclinder engine after some research and a test drive around Jacksonville in one. I had no problem on the highway with the turbocharged engine, and we averaged 22.3 mpg on the trip. Not as much as the Subaru (28+ last summer), but we won't be spending time putting up and taking down a tent (especially in the expected rain in the Maritimes). We'll have more space to live more comfortably than in a tent. Our original plan was very bare bones. We would get the van, and use our camping gear in it. We would have our cots with thermarest pads and sleeping bags, camp chairs, and a little camp table for food prep. Our bikes would fit inside the van, strapped to one wall, with the cots alongside. We would use it like this for our first trip, and decide along the way how we wanted to refine our experience, so that we could do a proper job over the winter. Then feature creep snuck in. Having an insulated floor would be much better easier to walk on than bare metal. Building an elevated frame for the bed would be a better use of space, with the bikes underneath. A vent fan to move the air better. Insulation on the walls to keep the temperatures and sound levels in the tin can more comfortable. A way to have power in the van with the doors closed. Air conditioning? Solar? Bathroom? And so it began. Youtube is a black hole where you can see a myriad of conversion implementations and why it is the best. It is rare for anyone on their video to say, "This really didn't work, so don't do what we did, instead do some other thing which would be better." No, pretty much all of them extol their accomplishments and making the smartest decisions. Some people provide much more detail than perhaps is necessary: for me, knowing that he uses a particular drawer for his socks, and that this space used to hold a boombox, is unnecessary. But the mosquito screen he built was quite interesting. We tended toward the minimalists, the simplest implementations. We also listened to friends and learn from their experience with vans or houses or boats.

Our travel gear

  • Homemade Bed Frame
    1. Having had my Zinn mountain bike stolen last year in an Oregon campground, we love the idea of keeping our bikes inside, out of the elements and prying eyes. With the high roof, we have built a bed frame for the back that is high enough (38") to fit our bikes underneath and easily accessible from the rear doorway. A queen size foam mattress fits on top, with room to spare on each side. Our friend Mike K. was kind enough to build it (and even let me be his apprentice). Since we are working on a tight time frame before our first trip, we built it out of wood without too many bells or whistles. It should be functional and give us a good idea how Version 2 will improve on the functionality.
  • Storage Box
    1. So we had some plywood left over from the bed frame construction, and Mike K. offered to use it to build a storage box, which will sit at the end of the bed and make getting in and out of the raised bed easier. It can also serve as an additional seat as needed.
  • Countertop / Storage shelf
    1. I was encouraged by Mike K.'s skills to try and go it alone and build a open-face box out of plywood. It's counter height (34") and four feet long and van-living shallow (18" deep), and it will be on one side of the van, overlapping part of the sliding door. For now it will hold clear plastic containers. To give it a touch of class, we got a beautiful glass countertop from Moyer Marble
  • Kitchen Countertop
    1. Having not totally screwed up the simple countertop, I built a slightly longer (55") and deeper (20") box, but this one has a separator wall to keep our water apart from the storage area. One end has a sink and a manual pump faucet. There are two water jugs below and behind a very simple door, one for drinking water, one for gray water. The shelf is placed to hold our Coleman stove snugly. Below that will be more storage. It also got a matching countertop from Moyer Marble
  • Memory Foam Mattress
    1. We move from cots and thermarests to a memory foam mattress. We've tried it out on the floor, and it provides enough support for my heavy (230#) frame. After a few nights, we added another few inches of memory foam we picked up at a Wal-Mart, and the combo kept my hip and shoulder away from the plywood base, and proved more comfortable than any motel bed.
  • Screen Room
    1. Too big to pack in our Subaru, but the Sprinter has the space, and it is a piece of cake to put up and take down. There are bugs out there, and this keeps them at bay without drenching yourself in deet.
  • Camp chairs
    1. These are easy to pack, and they are mesh which makes them better in warm climes. They are perfect for relaxing in the screen room.
  • Prep Sink
  • Hand Pump
    1. We don't need a lot of kitchen facilities, so a simple sink and manual pump should've been sufficient. Alas, the pump failed immediately, but the sink proved handy and water jugs were workable.
  • Camp stove
    1. We've had our Coleman stove for many years, and it continues to work well. Propane cannisters are easy to purchase as you need them. Per pound cannisters are far more expensive than a tank, but we only used a few in two months, less than the cost of a tank. and much more convenient.
  • Cooler
    1. A good cooler is paramount for keeping food cold. There may be times going to the store isn't convenient, so have a quality cooler that keeps things cold for over a day is really important. We had a Yeti cooler that we bought last year with our dividend check and 20% off coupon for one item, so it wasn't as expensive as they usually are. RTIC coolers are supposedly just as efficient, but at a dramatically lower price. But both eventually have ice water that tends to soak everything. So we upgraded to a super efficient fridge that runs on DC or AC power, and intelligently handles both.
  • Thermos cup
    1. I drove over my cup on day 1 last year, and I missed it. They are handy to keep coffee or tea warm for inordinate periods, or cold beverages cold. How do it know? IAC, I now have an RTIC 30 oz tumbler with a stainless straw, and I love it, and Sharon finally fell under the spell of a large amount of cold water close at hand all day. Supposedly Walmart often has them by the pallet load, but their price is significantly cheaper than Yeti, and just as functional. Amazon has quite a selection, just search for "stainless steel insulated tumbler".
  • plastic boxes for clothes
    1. A great way to organize clothes. Sharon had 3, I had 2, and a sixth contained cooking utensils. They're clear so you can visually see what's in them. They're not very deep, which is fine for clothes and stacking. Our stack was right behind the passenger seat.
  • collapsable bowls
    1. A great way to save space in the plastic cooking box, get them with lids so you can use them for storage, too.
  • Commode Comfort Chair
    1. We're not ready to put a full bathroom in (yet), but it would be nice to be able to relieve ourselves without having to open a door and walk in the middle of the night. So we chose one step up from the minimal solution of a jar. We'll see if this will prove to be sufficient when the time comes.
  • Audiobooks from the library
    1. We will likely try Audible for one book our library doesn't have (I requested it, so maybe they'll come through before we leave). Listening to books on those long stretches are wonderful, and if we have an internet connection, I can log in and select a new book.
  • Podcasts
    1. For shorter listening periods, we highly recommend podcasts. They are available from iTunes for iPhone folk, Google Play for Androids, Stitcher for everyone, and so forth. Our favorite podcasts are 99% Invisible (the link above is to it's page on Stitcher), Gastropod, Radiolab, Reply All, Planet Money, The New Yorker Radio Hour. There are many, many more podcasts, but they're all free (AFAIK), with a wide range of listeningability. Some are associated with NPR/PRI shows; sometimes those are the hour long show you can listen to on the air, sometimes they shorter pieces they've done that don't fit into the show format. IAC, they are a great resource on the road. You can only talk about the meaning of relationship for so long!
  • AllStays Camp and RV
    1. This app, available for both Android (link above) or Apple (link here) is the app for finding a place to camp while on the road. Recognizing that internet is often iffy on the road, the app is huge, with all of its data included in a database local to your phone. 32GB phones need not apply. It costs $10, and is worth it. You can select the type of places to display, and even without filtering it is easy to distinguish between independent campgrounds and state/provincial/national ones. Check here for details about the app.
  • NPR News
    1. This app, available for both Android (link above) or Apple (link here) is nice to listen to the news over your data connection, but that is ofter expensive and intermittent as you're driving. But it has a wonderful feature. The top menu bar of the app says "News" with a tiny triangle. Touch it, and a drop down menu appears, and one option is "stations". Select it, and it will show you where all of the nearby NPR stations are to your location, and their frequency. Rather than relying of the Scan of your radio, you can go directly to the right one. I like it also tells you where the station is broadcasting, so if you left a town 20 minutes ago, and the highway signs are giving you mileage to an upcoming city, You will probably be better off choosing the station your driving towards.

We have a reality.

Our reality for 52 days, June 22 to August 12, 2017.

Blogging about our experience.

My thoughts as we progressed through this adventure. The blog is at (tortugatravelers.wordpress.com where I entered my thoughts and impressions as we traveled. (Sharon chose not to blog - too much like work, I guess.) Posts were delayed by our internet connection and activity level. Writing requires a bit of down time, and sometimes it seems we don't have any. I tried to embed the blog below, but it was a really lame job, so I've removed that iframe. If you'd like to read my blog, please click the link above to the Wordpress site.

Seeing the United States from our Tortuga Sprinter.

Click to read our musings, or see our photo albums. We will be trying to document our process and the beauty we find during our travels.
If you want more images, check out some of my other albums on Google Photos.

Newfoundland

The land of my grandparents, the highlight of the trip

Nova Scotia

The land of lobster and mussels and scallops

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